Russell writes, Pics by Darren 29/12/10:
Into Accra on Sunday 19th December we headed for a cheap hotel that Billy and Trish (the overlanding Aussie stars) recommended. Accra is really hot and humid with queues of traffic going everywhere, but with motorbikes easily negotiated. This was more of a business stop-over for us as we were here for our Nigerian visas. So Monday morning we took off to the embassy, beginning another African run-around! The embassy had moved since the 2010 guide was published, when we got there we discovered we needed a letter of invitation or paid hotel reservation and copies of every single document. It was a little strange turning up at the embassy to see another BMW F650 GS Dakar parked up and finding Rob from London also going to Cape Town! Back on the visa hunt, with a little help from Rob and a Nigerian lady we met in our hotel, we made the copies and letter of invitation and headed back to the embassy. The visa officer was thorough, we hadn’t got proof of signature for our Nigerian friend from an official document, so off we went again. Back through the queues of traffic we managed to submit just in time (along with $130 each!) and were able to collect the following day. With a little celebration of a sachet of whisky, job done! Also thanks to Aisher’s friend in Accra who took us out around Uso, downtown Accra, for a few drinks and nice evening out.
Green Turtle - Orange Lizzard more like
Now, what shall we do for Christmas? We hear everyone back home is enjoying some snowy weather but here we are sweating in the shade! So Christmas on the beach for us then! We’d heard of a nice remote place along the coast called Green Turtle Lodge, so stocking up at the supermarket in Accra we set off with a stack of the usual suspects, a pile of noodles and a little Red Label. This place is another little slice of bliss with a beautiful coconut tree lined beach and a laid back Brit owner called Tom and his family. We discovered Tom’s parents are coming over on 2nd Jan so Darren is grabbing this opportunity to have a little parcel sent over with a much needed lens cap to stop the camera being damaged and spoiling the blog photo’s we’re all so enjoying.
Chris and Bridgette beach ceremony
We were privileged to be asked to photograph and film a private wedding ceremony on the beach between the South African overlander couple Chris and Bridget. We’d met them many miles ago in Western Sahara and caught up with them in Ghana again.
He had it coming!
A very romantic location, I’m just glad Darren and I are in separate tents as he says I don’t give him any cuddles! On Christmas day we treated ourselves to breakfast in a mess tin, lunch in a mess tin but we did eat out at the camp restaurant for tea with swordfish and lobster which was very nice. I have to say though, I did miss Christmas back home, service at CLC, massive lunch at home with all the family, presents, chocolates, snow! It even rained Christmas morning which was amusing I thought.
Dancing Akweda children
Not much else to report really, we’re stuck on the beach waiting for a package, it’s a hard life! We’ve started to write up our famous ‘Usual Suspects Bush Menu’ (coming soon), you won’t look at tomatoes, onions, garlic and eggs in the same way again!
Akweda village girl
Darren at last got his medical check by a couple of qualified med students from London, about to start work at a nearby city hospital. They said Darren did actually break at least 3 ribs, number 2, 3, and 4 on the left, his sternum and put out a shoulder bone when he crashed in the desert! He was very happy though to discover there didn’t appear to be lung injuries, the upper back was just muscular and that the ribs were in the right place and that the lumps there were just from the bones reforming which should go back to normal in time. Even though he had this injury he still enjoyed the two days riding through the desert after claiming it was just an added challenge in the dunes!
Being taken for a swim!
This has cheered him up no end, battle scars from the desert. Good to know (though still a bit uncomfortable) he’s well on the mend with no permanent damage. ! Hmm, time for another swim…
Darren Writes 02 Jan
Happy New Year
Ok, we’ve got really stuck here now on the beach. Somewhat out of reach of internet to post the blog Russell has written. We should have left today to pick up my lens cap etc. in Accra and then take our onward travel to Nigeria. A couple of days ago though, whilst shopping for fish in a nearby village, my bike stopped working… Diagnosed a dead battery rather than alternator we are now waiting for the holiday period to be over so we can try and buy a new one in Takaradi, an hour and a half from here. We should manage that tomorrow and post this blog then. Russell, now and again, still disappears into the sea for an hour for a ‘quick swim’. I wonder sometimes if he is coming back!! He’s even managed to start running again which he hadn’t managed to do for the last 7 weeks after his twist. So the rest has done us both good but now we are both itching to move on to some more adventure. Christmas was really nice here and especially good to open and read the card lots of you had written messages in. Thanks for that… Big smile stuff!
We go to the fish butcher
New Year was a beach party here. First though, the newly-wed couple, their two mums and us barbequed a whole small tuna and a trigger fish (yum), made bread and salad’s and some starters. Red wine and whisky to accompany. Life is good! We hope you all had a good New Year too!
Yesterday I went to the village with Russ’ battery to bring back my bike. I spent the day with some locals and then went to watch the fishermen’s catch being landed, auctioned and chopped up. This is where I normally buy it before it gets dried and sold on. Yesterday was the normal catch of tuna and sword fish but also pulled off the boat were a couple of sharks and then a dolphin and then a hammerhead shark and then finally a 2 ½ m Manta ray! I was a bit sad as I would prefer to see these on a dive, but for these guys, fish is fish and a living. Still the dolphin did taste good. Just kidding!
The man from Akweda...
Cos we’ve got so much, Russ and I have decided to send you all a bit of sunshine… Enjoy
Russell writes 7/1/11
Finally back in Accra and found the internet. Please continue to remember us in your prayers. Darren had malaria while at the beach and although the treatment did its job, he’s still recovering and isn’t 100% yet. God bless you all. D & R
Africa Orbital 